Last Updated on April 10, 2022 by Star
Ningyocho (人形町) means doll town in Japanese, and this was the name chosen for this district of Old downtown Edo. It was where one could find Kabuki theatres, puppet shows, craftsmen, Japanese sweets shops and restaurants. It is also where the Ningyo-ichi (人形市) free doll event is held in November every year.
While the theatres have all either moved away or closed down, and the doll makers have since mostly disappeared from view, the Ningyocho district still retains a lot of its old Edo charm.
Puppet shows are not longer as huge as they used to be and people nowadays do not actively seek them out. And as you can probably imagine, not everyone is interested in buying dolls just to display them these days.
I mean of course Hinamatsuri dolls are displayed in homes on Girls’ day (雛祭り), but we don’t usually see many people collecting and displaying dolls and puppets nowadays.
Luckily, a group called Kindaiteki Shogyokumiai (近代的商業組合) decided to start holding a free doll event in 2006 – they name it Ningyo-ichi. I guess they probably didn’t want the history of Ningyocho to just disappear into the history books.
Ningyo-Ichi doll market
This (now) annual event lasts 3 days, and doll makers and companies set up their stalls along the street.
I found out about it as I had been in the Ningyocho area a couple of weeks earlier and happened to see an event poster. And since I really enjoy Japanese festivals and events, I decided to go down and check it out.
There are many stalls that line both sides of the street, and if you take the time to walk down both sides, you will discover everything from traditional Japanese dolls, to Japanese Samurai armor, to Western style dolls and even little knick knacks.
Beautifully Crafted Dolls
Most, if not all the dolls and items on display are carefully hand made by professional craftsmen and doll making groups. The names of these shops and groups hang from the top of the stalls, so if you want to either check out their brick and mortar shops or online shops, do take note!
Imperial dolls
Walking from one stall to another, I noticed a pair of really gorgeous dolls; the dolls were fashioned after the current Emperor and Empress. The stallholder said that it was made a few weeks after their wedding.
The Emperor and Empress got married in 1993 so that makes this set of dolls almost 30 years old! Just look at the quality and beauty!!
I am no expert on the details and meanings of the ceremonial kimonos, but even I could see that a lot of effort was put into making these dolls as beautiful and accurate as possible.
One thing I did learn though, was that the reason why the Emperor’s robes were that brilliant orange, is because it was to symbolize the beginning, like what the sun looks like at dawn.
They were meant to be accurate replicas of the actual people and ceremonial hair, clothes and accessories.
Each kimono layer was carefully added on and so much care was put into the dolls’ faces and hair.
And the price? Well, it was a fraction of what it originally was, according to the stallholder. About 1/10 to be exact! It is at times like this I wish I had the space to display such gorgeous works of art!
Visiting Ningyo-Ichi
If you like traditional craftsmanship and would like to check out these wonderful dolls, mark your calendar for the next Ningyocho-Ichi in November.
Of course there are other free doll events and festivals in hotels and museums, but they are usually nothing like this one.
So while admiring the pretty dolls on display is great, getting up close and personal with the craftsmen, their dolls and this slice of Old Edo history, is something you can only find here.
Happy discovering!
Star
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KERRY says
You haven’t told us the dates when the doll festival is actually going on, so what’s the point of the article if you can’t inform us exactly when it is?
Star says
The dates for 2021 were Nov 4-6.
Maybe you can try to catch it next year around the same time. 🙂